THE GOOD

ANCESTRAL

Modern ancestral tequila production takes us back to tequila’s roots, drawing a heavy parallel to mezcal production. Harvested hearts of the agave (piñas) are roasted for many days in a covered underground pit before being ground by a tahona wheel pulled by a donkey or machine. The agave sugars are then fermented in open air vessels with water, natural yeasts pulled from the air, and “begas,” the roasted agave fibers. Once fermented, it is distilled twice in a hybrid style still, integrating both wood and metal.

WOOD OVEN

The best modern tequilas available utilize a large walk-in oven or “horno” to steam agave piñas before fermentation. This process takes days and yields a complex product in alignment with the quality of early tequilas. From that point, the master distiller will use either a traditional tahona wheel to crush the agave or a machine to shred them. They are then fermented with natural or added yeasts and distilled twice in a metal or hybrid still. The tequila can then be barrel aged or bottled as the distiller sees fit.

AUTOCLAVE

Faster than a wood oven, the autoclave pressure cooks the agave, steaming them in under a fifth of the time. The large metal machines don’t impart any flavor, unlike more traditional steaming techniques. The agave is cooked, machine shredded, fermented with added yeast, and distilled. While modernization can yield lesser results, many amazing tequilas are made using autoclaves, usually to achieve a more accessible price point.

THE BAD

DIFFUSOR

The most modern technology introduced into agave production is the diffuser, a multi-million dollar, barn-sized industrial machine that allows the fastest, most efficient methods of tequila production to date. First, raw agave, often underdeveloped, is shredded and packed into the diffuser. If the agave piñas are too hard to be shredded, they are soaked in acid to soften them. Next, the agave fibers are pressure-washed with hot water, often in combination with chemicals, which are used to heat the agave fibers more efficiently. If the agave sugars have not been properly extracted, the agave is then transferred to a vertical autoclave where it is pressure cooked until ready for fermentation. Often, diffuser tequila production uses a column still (also used to produce vodka) which continuously distills the agave juice until producers see fit. A byproduct of this process is a chemical, medicinal flavor, which is remedied by blending in additives like glycerin and chemical based flavoring.

The diffuser represents a method of production we feel is harmful to the environment, and produces a spirit that is chemically altered. Additionally, it destroys countless jobs for the hard working people of Mexico’s agave industry. More often than not, brands do not divulge diffuser integration in their process, denying their usage. Other brands proudly present them as ‘eco friendly,’ which is usually misleading. Many distilleries house multiple brands, and will not divulge which utilize the diffuser on site, so we’ve committed to a decision: we believe our guests deserve to know what they support and what they put in their bodies.